At AME Jewellery, we celebrate the unique beauty of every type of pearl. Our experts guide you in distinguishing between pearl types, selecting the right pearls, maintaining them, and understanding the quality of South Sea Pearls, Tahitian Pearls, Akoya Pearls, and Freshwater Pearls.
Kokichi Mikimoto: The Inventor of the Pearl Culturing Technique
In Eastern cultures, pearls symbolize marital bliss, making them a popular choice for brides on their wedding day and a meaningful gift for weddings. Pearls are considered nature's treasures, ranking as "The Queen of Gems" among the "Five Kings" of precious stones—diamond, ruby, sapphire, emerald, and jade.
Unlike gemstones, pearls are produced by living organisms. When an irritant enters a mollusk, it secretes nacre layers to encase the irritant, forming a pearl. Pearls primarily consist of calcium carbonate (over 90%), the remainder being water and organic compounds, giving them their vibrant, unique sheen. The structure of nacre layers impacts a pearl’s color, luster, durability, and elasticity, creating its iconic natural radiance.
Pearls are often associated with purity, brilliance, and love. They bring good fortune, emotional balance, and deep understanding.
How to Identify Real Pearls
Pearls are among the ocean's most exquisite gifts. Whether purchasing pearl jewelry or owning a family heirloom, it’s important to differentiate genuine pearls from imitations. Today’s pearls are available as natural seawater pearls, cultured seawater pearls, and freshwater pearls. Here are a few tips from AME Jewellery:
1. Imperfections on the Surface
Real pearls are rarely flawless. They often feature minor imperfections or irregularities in shape. Light reflects differently on various parts of the pearl’s surface. Artificial pearls, however, tend to be perfectly round, with consistent luster and no visible blemishes.
- A perfectly round strand of pearls with identical luster is likely artificial.
2. Shape
Natural pearls vary slightly in size and shape, resembling snowflakes or fingerprints—each unique.
If pearls are perfectly spherical, they may be artificial. While naturally round pearls exist, they are rare and highly valuable. To test:
- Roll the pearl on a flat surface. If it doesn’t roll in a straight line, it’s likely real.
3. Surface Texture
Examine the pearl's surface for slight irregularities, such as ridges or pinholes. Under magnification, real pearls exhibit a maze-like pattern, akin to a topographical map. This texture creates the characteristic subtle roughness of real pearls.
- In contrast, imitation pearls have smoother, uniform surfaces, often resembling the craters of the moon.
4. Luster
Luster is a pearl’s brilliance and reflective quality. High-quality pearls exhibit sharp, clear reflections and appear luminous under light. Real pearls have a soft, smooth glow, while artificial ones may appear dull or overly glossy.
- Note: Luster alone cannot determine authenticity, so combine it with other tests for accuracy.
5. Drill Hole Examination
Inspect the edges of the drilled hole on the pearl:
- Real pearls have sharp, clean edges, while imitation pearls may have rounded or uneven edges with chipped paint or coatings.
The drill hole of real pearl
The drill hole of imitation pearl
6. Friction Test
Gently rub two pearls together. Real pearls produce slight friction due to the uneven nacre surface, often leaving a fine white powder (nacre dust). Artificial pearls slide smoothly due to their polished coatings.
7. Tooth Test
Rub the pearl against your front teeth. Real pearls feel slightly gritty due to the microscopic layers of nacre, while artificial ones feel smooth.
- Note: Brush your teeth before this test to avoid skewed results from food residue.
8. Temperature Sensitivity
Hold the pearl in your hand. Real pearls feel cool initially and warm up over time. Artificial pearls, especially plastic ones, tend to feel room temperature and warm quickly.
9. Weight
Gently toss the pearl in your hand. Real pearls often feel heavier relative to their size, whereas plastic imitations feel lightweight.
Tips for Purchasing Pearls
Pearls add elegance and sophistication to any jewelry collection. When selecting pearls, consider the following factors:
Types of Pearls
- Natural Seawater Pearls: Rare and typically sold to collectors.
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Cultured Pearls: Most commonly available, categorized into:
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Saltwater Pearls:
- Akoya Pearls (Japan, China, Vietnam)
- Tahitian Pearls (French Polynesia)
- South Sea Pearls (Australia, Indonesia, Myanmar, the Philippines)
- Freshwater Pearls: Created by mollusks in rivers and lakes (China, USA).
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Saltwater Pearls:
Quality Factors
1. Luster (Nacre Quality)
Luster is the most critical factor in pearl evaluation, referring to the brightness and depth of the pearl’s reflection. Pearls with high luster appear luminous and mirror-like, while low-luster pearls appear dull and chalky.
- Saltwater pearls typically exhibit higher luster than freshwater pearls.
2. Nacre Thickness
Nacre thickness determines a pearl's durability and value. Pearls with thicker nacre layers are more resilient and desirable. Nacre thickness generally ranges between 1mm and 3mm, depending on the cultivation period.
3. Shape
Perfectly round pearls are rare and highly valuable. Approximately 5-10% of cultured pearls achieve this standard. As a rule, the more symmetrical the pearl, the higher its value.
4. Size
Pearl size affects both appearance and cost:
- Common jewelry sizes: 7.5mm to 9.5mm.
- Girls and younger wearers: 6.0mm to 7.0mm.
- Larger, luxury pearls (Tahitian and South Sea): 9.0mm to 13.0mm.
- Note: Larger pearls command significantly higher prices, akin to diamonds.
5. Color
Pearls come in a range of natural colors, including white, cream, pink, gold, and black. Color selection often depends on personal preference or symbolic meanings.
6. Surface Quality
Pearls are graded on a scale of A to AAA based on surface smoothness:
- AAA: Flawless on 90%+ of the surface.
- AA+: Flawless on 80%+ of the surface.
- AA: Flawless on 70%+ of the surface.
- A+: Flawless on 40%+ of the surface.
- A: Visible flaws.
At AME Jewellery, we provide expert guidance to help you select the perfect pearls for your collection, whether it’s a timeless necklace or elegant earrings. Discover the beauty and sophistication of pearls with us.
